The Luxurious Taste Of The Finest Quality Chocolate
Chocolate of the finest quality is sensuous in the mouth, an artisanal victual that deserves to be savored with love and care.
Real Chocolate, not the mass-produced confection piled upon supermarket shelves, is a sensualist’s delight, its emotional resonance making a square of the finest Dark Chocolate a luxury to be imbibed, eyes closed, with pleasure and thought.
The Aztecs 1st dubbed Chocolate xocoatl (“bitter water”), and proclaimed it a cloud-borne gift from their feathered deity Quetzalcoatl.
They served as a viscous liquid, and believed to bestow divine faculties upon the drinker. When Spanish conquistador Hernán Cortés found his way into Mesoamerica, Chocolate-drinking had reached its apex of decadence, the then-Aztec ruler Moctezuma himself enjoyed his Chocolate iced, chilled by runners bearing snow from the mountains.
Senor Cortés became the 1st exporter of Chocolate, and its hypnotic power spread over Europe like a spell from Quetzalcoatl himself. It was there that refined sugar was 1st mixed into the brew; upper society ladies spiked theirs with Orange and Cinnamon. The Europeans then fattened Chocolate by adding milk, and in the 19th Century, Briton John Cadbury emulsified chocolate, making history, and the 1st solid Chocolate bar.
The allure of Chocolate stems in part from the painstaking process it takes to produce it.
In its raw form, Chocolate is a bean from the tropical Theobroma cacao tree. 1st, the pale white beans are extracted from their fleshy pods, “sweated” to remove excess moisture, then dried and fermented.
Fact: the “sweating” step is a Key, because if the beans are not thoroughly dry, the resultant Cocoa will retain an astringent taste reminiscent of raw potatoes.
After roasting, de-shelling and grounding, we are left with a thick liquor that is the base for Chocolate as we know it.
Much like how cream is separated from milk, the liquor is then further broken down into Cocoa solids and Cocoa butter. It is the varying proportions of sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa liqueur, vanilla and other, sometimes esoteric additives that give rise to the plethora of different Chocolate types and flavors.
The debate among Chocolatiers: Milk or Dark?
Milk Chocolate must, by EU regulations, contain at least 25% Cocoa solids, blended with sugar, cocoa liqueur and milk or condensed milk. Despite sneering from some purists, very fine Milk Chocolate can be had. Houses like Amedei and Pralus boast the nostalgic, simple pleasures of Milk Chocolate, and have experimented with region-specific milk, to produce versions of that childhood favorite boasting an unbeatable lush creaminess.
Dark Chocolate is more austere, with little to no milk added. For those with a stickler for rules, EU regulations contend that “Dark” Chocolate must comprise of 35% Cocoa solids, but extremely dark bars may hit 70, 80, and 90%. What makes Dark Chocolate so appealing is its velvety texture and sophisticated subtlety.
Some proponents compare it to wine, with fruity accents that sound like the tasting notes of a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon: apricot, raisin, raspberry…
Then there is Couverture Chocolate, with its Cocoa butter content of 50%, and above yielding a supreme sheen, a satisfying “snap” when broken and a rich mouthfeel. Because of its high Cocoa butter content, Couverture Chocolate from brands such as Valrhona is often melted as glazing for premium desserts.
Which ever is your preference, high quality Chocolate should always exhibit a lustrous sheen. A dull surface may indicate cheap additives like wax.
Next, touch.
If you are at a boutique shop, ask the Chocolatier for a sample.
Good Chocolate should feel silky, never sticky. Chocolate with higher Cocoa butter content melts faster, so if it starts to soften between your fingers within a few secs, chances are it is of superior quality.
Break the piece. It should snap cleanly and decisively, and showcase a fine grain along the broken edge. If you hear a dull thud or if it crumbles, the Chocolate may have been stored at too warm a temperature.
Finally, scent.
Chocolate should give off a pleasing bouquet. Like judging a wine’s nose, notes to look out for include vanilla, caramel and berries.
Like any fine food, a degree of ritual will greatly enhance the experience of savoring premium Chocolate.
Chocolate should not be consumed straight out of the refrigerator . The cold blots out taste and smell, so have your Chocolate at room temperature, or warm it up slightly by rubbing it gently between your fingers.
Ensure your palate is clean, have a glass of sparkling water to remove residual flavor traces from your last meal.
Place the Chocolate, at least 10g, to allow for the full bloom of flavor, on the tip of your tongue. It will start to melt, and the Cocoa butter will spread. Study the taste and texture. Like cognac, see if you can tease out the top, middle and base notes of the taste.
The finish and review Q’s:
- Has the piece of Chocolate parceled out a complex string of different flavors?
- Does the finish linger on your palate, or is it airy and evanescent?
Now, jot down notes if you like, so you can make comparisons in future.
There you have it, a brief guide to Chocolate.
Have a terrific weekend.
HeffX-LTN
Paul Ebeling
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